Diamond & Gemstone Setting – the different types dymistified! August 20 2013
When you are looking to buy or make a ring you’ll notice that not all stones are set in the same way. You’ll often hear jewellers say things like, this ones channel set or that one has a rubbed in setting or this on has the stone gypsy set but sometimes it can get a bit confusing. Here is a list of the most common settings for you so you can be up with the lingo.
In channel set rings the stones are suspended in the middle of two strips of gold which are hammered over the edges of stones to hold them in place. These edges are then buffed smooth & polished.
As the name suggest the stones are set with claws to hold the stone in place. This type of setting is popular due to easiness to make and as it lets the optimal amount of light pass through each stone. This is sometimes also referred to as prong setting.
Rubbed in or Bezel Set
This is one of the earliest known techniques in which a strip of metal (bezel) is bent into the shape of the stone and then placed into the ring. The stone is then put into the bezel & metal is rubbed over the stone to hold it in. This is my favourite type of setting due to it’s look, durability and the fact that it will mean your gorgeous ring will never put a ladder in your stockings or pull a thread in your favourite top.
When stones are gypsy set they inserted into a space then the metal is pushed around the stone. This is sometimes called hammer, burnish or flush setting.
Stones that are grain set have 4 small claws that hold the stones in place, this often gives the illusion that the stone is square. It gives rings a more vintage/antique feel so it’s if you are after that look in a new ring it is a good choice.
This is very like grain setting but less space is left between each stone, which often gives the illusion of a ribbon of diamonds as the light bounces of each of the stones. The word pave originated from the French word 'pavé' which means cobblestoned or paved.
This is not a setting but refers to strings of tiny bead shapes that run along the edges in rings and jewellery. It’s often seen in antique jewellery and it gives a very polished look next to grain set stones.